1. Вступ
The Black Diamond ATC Guide is a versatile and essential belay and rappel device designed for rock climbing. It offers smooth rope handling, excellent braking control, and features a guide mode for bringing up one or two seconding climbers directly from the anchor. This manual provides detailed instructions for the safe and effective use, maintenance, and storage of your ATC Guide.

Image 1.1: The Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device. This image shows the device's main body, the two friction slots, and the small loop for attaching to an anchor in guide mode. A white cable is visible, indicating the keeper cable for a carabiner.
2. Інформація про безпеку
УВАГА: Climbing is inherently dangerous. Improper use of this equipment can result in serious injury or death. This manual is not a substitute for professional instruction. Users must seek qualified instruction on the proper use of this device and understand its limitations. Always inspect your equipment before and after each use. Discard equipment that shows signs of wear, damage, or has been subjected to significant loads.
- Always use this device with appropriate climbing ropes and carabiners that meet UIAA or CE standards.
- Ensure the rope is correctly threaded through the device and the belay carabiner is properly locked.
- Maintain constant control of the brake strand of the rope.
- Будьте уважні до свого оточення та потенційних небезпек.
- Regularly inspect the device for sharp edges, cracks, or excessive wear that could compromise its integrity or damage the rope.
3. Налаштування
The ATC Guide can be set up for belaying a lead climber, top-roping, or in guide mode for bringing up followers.
3.1. Standard Belay (Lead/Top-Rope)
- Pass a bight of rope through the two friction slots of the ATC Guide.
- Clip a locking carabiner through the bight of rope and the main attachment hole of the ATC Guide.
- Attach the locking carabiner to your belay loop on your harness. Ensure the carabiner is locked.
- The rope strand leading to the climber is the "live" strand, and the rope strand you hold is the "brake" strand. Always maintain control of the brake strand.
3.2. Guide Mode (Belaying from the Anchor)
- Attach the small loop on the ATC Guide to a locking carabiner.
- Clip this locking carabiner to a strong, redundant anchor point. Ensure the carabiner is locked.
- Pass the rope(s) from the climber(s) through the friction slots of the ATC Guide.
- The device will provide an auto-blocking function, allowing you to belay one or two followers directly from the anchor.
4. Операційна
Proper operation of the ATC Guide requires practice and understanding of belay techniques.
4.1. Belaying a Lead Climber
- Feed rope smoothly to the climber as they ascend.
- When the climber clips a quickdraw, take in slack by pulling the brake strand down and back.
- To catch a fall, immediately lock off the brake strand by pulling it down firmly.
4.2. Rappelling
- Thread the rappel rope(s) through the device as you would for a standard belay.
- Attach the device to your belay loop with a locking carabiner.
- Control your descent by adjusting the tension on the brake strand.
- Always use a backup knot (e.g., Prusik) below the device for added safety.
4.3. Релеasing a Locked Guide Mode Device
If the device locks up in guide mode under load, it can be released by attaching a carabiner to the small hole near the guide loop and using it as a lever to relieve tension, allowing the rope to feed.
5. Технічне обслуговування
Proper maintenance extends the life of your ATC Guide and ensures its safe operation.
- Прибирання: Clean the device with fresh water and mild soap if it becomes dirty. Rinse thoroughly and allow it to air dry completely before storage. Avoid harsh chemicals.
- Огляд: Before and after each use, inspect the device for:
- Cracks, deformation, or significant nicks.
- Excessive wear in the rope slots, which can create sharp edges.
- Corrosion or pitting.
- Damage to the keeper cable (if present).
- Зберігання: Store the device in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight, chemicals, and extreme temperatures. Do not store it with sharp objects or corrosive materials.
- Термін служби: The service life of climbing equipment depends heavily on frequency and intensity of use, as well as environmental factors. Black Diamond recommends retiring equipment after 10 years from the date of manufacture, regardless of use, or immediately if any damage is observed.
6. Вирішення проблем
Поширені проблеми та їх вирішення:
| проблема | Можлива причина | Рішення |
|---|---|---|
| Rope feeds too slowly/too much friction. | Rope diameter is too large for the device; device is dirty; new rope is stiff. | Ensure rope is within recommended diameter range. Clean device. Break in new ropes. |
| Rope feeds too quickly/not enough friction. | Rope diameter is too small; device is worn; rope is slick. | Ensure rope is within recommended diameter range. Retire worn device. Use caution with slick ropes. |
| Device locks up in guide mode. | High load on the rope; improper angle. | Use the release hole with a carabiner as a lever to relieve tension. |
| Device appears damaged. | Impact, abrasion, or prolonged use. | Immediately retire the device and replace it. Do not use damaged equipment. |
7. Технічні характеристики
Detailed specifications for the Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device.
| Назва моделі | ATC Guide |
| Номер моделі | BD620079 |
| Бренд | Чорний діамант |
| Колір | чорний |
| Вага товару | 0.09 кілограма |
| Розміри виробу (ДхШхВ) | 4.72 x 3.15 x 3.15 дюймів |
| UPC | 793661287872 |
| Recommended Rope Diameter | Typically 7.7 mm to 11 mm (refer to manufacturer's latest guidelines) |

Image 7.1: The Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device shown with approximate dimensions. The device is compact and designed for easy handling during climbing activities.
8. Інформація про гарантію
Black Diamond equipment is designed for high performance and durability. For specific warranty terms and conditions, please refer to the official Black Diamond website or contact their customer service directly. Warranty coverage typically applies to defects in materials and workmanship.
9. Підтримка клієнтів
For further assistance, technical questions, or to report any issues with your Black Diamond ATC Guide, please visit the official Black Diamond website or contact their customer support department. Contact information can typically be found in the "Contact Us" or "Support" section of their webсайт.
Black Diamond Equipment: www.blackdiamondequipment.com